gardenia

Gardenias are native to China and Japan but also grow well as an evergreen shrub in the south and west coastal areas of the United States. There, the plant reaches up to 6 feet tall! Gardenias thrive in bright light, cool temperatures and moderately humid air.

Your challenge in growing the gardenia as a houseplant is to match the plant’s native environment as closely as possible. First, make sure you give the plant plenty of bright light, preferably direct sunshine for at least half a day. Winter will likely be the most difficult time to keep high light intensity due to shorter, gloomy days. Moving plants closer to southern-exposure windows and/or supplementing with plant-grow lights will help. Cooler room temperatures are best for the gardenia, around 55 F at night and about 10 degrees warmer by day.

Maintaining proper relative humidity is a challenge, particularly during the winter heating season. There are several ways to help increase humidity, including running a humidifier and grouping plants together on trays of wet pebbles. Misting by hand with a spray bottle offers only momentary relief and so does not really increase humidity in a meaningful way.

A healthy, blooming gardenia will need to be nurtured with a steady supply of water and nutrients, but don’t overdo. The goal is to provide the proper balance of water, air and nutrients. If soil is kept constantly wet, the roots will be starved for air. Too much fertilizer can lead to damaging salt accumulation. Monitor the soil frequently for moisture content, and water thoroughly as the top inch of soil dries. Use a fertilizer that is formulated for acid-loving, blooming plants, such as an azalea-type product, according to rates listed on the label.

Don’t be afraid to prune the gardenia; in fact, blooming will be more prolific on younger growth. Remember that the gardenia is a woody shrub in its native environment and so may need to have older, woody stems removed to encourage new branches.

Though the responsibilities of gardenia care are daunting, if you persevere, you’ll be rewarded with elegant white blossoms and sweet fragrance that simply cannot be matched by other plants.

http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/gardeniachallenge.html

Gardenia question and comment from forum

Suicidal Gardenia Posted by Joan - CA-10 ) on Tue, Jul 6, 99 at 1:33 Hi y'all, Okay, second time here for this vetchii. Got it 1 1/2 years ago, in 1 gal. pot. It was around 1 1/2-2' tall. Not too long after I got it, transplanted to a 10" (or maybe 12) terra cotta pot. Last year it bloomed--however reluctantly. I had it in shade with very late afternoon sun. This spring it looked awful, and has continued to go downhill: yellow leaves (soil damp, so watered less), yellow leaves with green veins (so used Ironite, a few weeks later sprayed foliage with liquid chealated iron), leaves crispy brown on edges (so drenched to get rid of accumulated salts). The buds are one by one getting crispy on the edges, *just* as they looked like they were thinking about opening. (I've only got one bud left!) New growth looks pale and frail, so put in more sun. Over the past several months I've mulched, given it Miracid, given it Epson salts, watered it with bottled water only, misted it once a day (actually I'm on the coast, so air should have enough moisture). Also tried pruning it a little. Now I've moved it back to where it gets only some morning sun. Still, it sulks and continues to decline. There aren't a lot of leaves yet, and just that one unburned bud. I've tried everything I can think of, including begging on bended knee, scowling at it, doing a voo-doo dance and shaking a chicken over it. Can anyone think anything else I can do? Has anyone else had this crisping of the buds and leaves?

Follow-Up Postings: · Posted by: emily moorefield - 6 ) on Tue, Jul 6, 99 at 17:02 Joan -- I highly recommend the chicken-shaking thing. It works for me every time, even with copy machines. Seriously, I guess in your situation what I would do is remove every dead or damaged leaf and get it out of the full sun (unless your summer has been mostly rainy). What they seem to like is diffuse light, high humidity, and heat. In fact, I guess what I would _really_ do is send the gardenia to New York City! There's plenty of heat and humidity and hazy sun here to make a zillion gardenias happy. I'm not sure what "food' they like, but you might try Peters 20-20-20. All the watering could have washed out the nutrients in your potting soil. I also find that giving them very diluted coffee about once every 2 weeks seems to help. The new foliage _is_ pale and fragile looking, so that may not be a problem. You could also try bringing it indoors, if you have a place with diffuse light that can be kept warm and humid enough. Try to replicate the conditions of Home Depot,where they seem to grow like fiends. Also, if you're not misting the leaves, do that twice a day -- they like that better than frequent waterings. Good luck.

· Posted by: Joan - CA-10 ) on Sat, Jul 10, 99 at 18:31 Hi Emily, Hmph. Now why does chicken-shaking work for you and not for me? It's possible the motion I used was more waving than shaking, but still ... It is out of the full sun now, only getting morning sun and diffuse light the rest of the day. Trying to mist twice a day, per your suggestion. Called several airlines re: CA -> NY gardenia rates, but they hung up on me. I believe the Miracid should do for food. Have tried coffee grounds, but not coffee. May as well give that a try, too. Can't pick off all the damaged leaves, else it wouldn't have any. Probably only has around 20 left as it is. :-( No, this isn't your normal frail and pale new growth, this is definitely sickly and stunted frail and pale new growth. It hasn't bitten the dust yet, pretty much status quo. O cursed, o stubborn veitchii! The good news is, I've had two blooms on my Mystery, and several more promising-looking buds! Joan <-- who, with bedside glass of gardenia bloom waving fragrance all night, says yes, it's worth it

· Posted by: emily moorefield - 6 ) on Sat, Jul 10, 99 at 22:00 I guess my other suggestion would be to fill in the downtime with growing some oriental lilies -- their fragrance will knock your sox off, and they're a heck of a lot easier than gardenias.

Even a sunny indoor window does not provide as much light as light shade outdoors. In addition, Gardenias do better with temps in the 55-65 degree range at this time of year and that is probably chillier than you keep your house. Once the heat comes on indoors, the air starts to dry out and that can adversely affect Gardenias.

Finally, you may have to adjust your watering to reflect these changes. That means allowing the soil to dry a bit deeper into the pot in between waterings.

Gardenias are one of the more difficult plants to grow and bloom indoors successfully. Gardenias are not easy to bloom because they have rather strict temperature requirements. Temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees are essential when gardenias are in bud or bloom. Bud drop occurs above 70 degrees. Bud deformity occurs below 55 degrees. Letting the soil get too dry will also cause bud drop. In addition, a change in environment will also sometimes cause bud drop.

another q and a about gardenias

I will try and answer your questions as you asked them and add any additional information that is helpful. You asked:

"What is the ideal environment for its healthy growth"
Four hours of sun. Cool temperatures are best (65-70°F) (18-24*C) days and below 65°F (18*C) at night are best. High temperatures will result in leaf and flower bud drop. Average temperatures in a house or office should be just fine. Don't leave it in the sun more then four hours so it doesn't get too hot.

"Which is more vital, bright lights, or cool weather. And if bright light is vital, how bright, is a strong flurecent white light enough or should be sunlight?"
Both are required as both are needed. Floruescent lights should be enough if they are on for 8 to 12 hours.

"how many hours a day does it need light?"
Four hours of sunlight is best.

"I can leave it in the dark to "sleep" at night?"
Yes

"how frequent should I water it if left all the time in a cool place, and how frequent if exposed to direct sun light"
That depends on what type of pot, how hot or cold the room is and how much roots are in the pot. Clay and terra cotta pots dry out faster as they are porous and evaporate moisture more quickly then plastic or ceramic, so they need to be watered more often. Direct sun will dry the soil more quickly as will warm temperatures. The longer the plant is in the pot the more roots in the pot. The more roots, the more often the plant will need to be watered.

The best way to tell when a plant needs to be watered is to stick your finger into the soil up to the first knuckle. If it's dry, then water. Make sure the water runs out the drainage holes, but don't let the plant sit in water for more then an hour. After a few months you will know how often your plant needs to be watered. It might be once a week or once every ten days or two weeks. Many different factors will effect how often. Gardenias like humidity, so if you have an indoor fountain that it can be near, or want to spray with a mist of water every few days, your plant will like that.

"the plant shop seller told me that if left in sun for a long period it will turn to be an outdoor plant, is that true,"
No. If you want to make it an outdoor plant you will need to do it slowly. Let me know if you want to do this and I can tell you how. I am familiar with your climate as I have an adopted daughter who once lived in your country for 2 years. I live in the US and my mother lives in Arizona. If you have ever been there it is very much like your climate - hot dry days and cold nights.

"and does this mean it should after that be left outside?"
No

"will it give flowers then?"
In your climate it will grow better as a houseplant. The hot temperatures during the day outside will cause the plant to drop the flower buds and wilt. You might consider leaving it outside at night when the nights get cold in the winter. Just put it in a shady place just in case you might forget to bring it inside the next day so the sun doesn't burn it.

It would be good if you fertilize your gardenia every two weeks from March through September. You could use a half strength mixture of a natural fertilizer of seaweed or fish emulsion if you can find it. Another option would be to add one tablespoon or 14 millileters of milk to 2 liters of water and use that to water your plants. The milk can be from any animal. Gardenias don't like chlorine and it can make their leaves turn yellow. Here in the US we add chlorine to our drinking water. If you have the same there, best to use distilled or bottled water if you can.

Great fragrant plants

· Posted by: Marco (verobendavid@sympatico.ca) on Mon, Jul 12, 99 at 17:07 I know how striking the scent of a freshly opened gardenia is: sort of like a coconut/vanilla/suntan lotion mix. I can't give you any advice on how to coax it into blooming, but I can suggest some other killer smells: Night blooming jessamine (not jasmine) has tiny, almost invisible flowers whose scent is delicious Acidanthera: a fall blooming white bulb with the best smell in the universe Spanish broom (Spartium Junctium) is a tall shrub that I've seen in France/Spain that has honey-scented yellow pea flowers. (stunning in bloom as in smell, tolerates abuse galore) Common jasmine (the reputation is well-earned) Evening Scented Stocks: a small annual that looks like a pile of dead twigs in the day but once the sun goes down, opens to reveal countless pink and white flowers that, if the door is open, perfume the entire house Anyways, have fun and bonne chance.

ada compliant lavatories

.19 Lavatories and Mirrors.
4.19.1 General. The requirements of 4.19 shall apply to lavatory fixtures, vanities, and built-in lavatories.
4.19.2 Height and Clearances. Lavatories shall be mounted with the rim or counter surface no higher than 34 in (865 mm) above the finish floor. Provide a clearance of at least 29 in (735 mm) above the finish floor to the bottom of the apron. Knee and toe clearance shall comply with Fig. 31.
EXCEPTION 1: Lavatories used primarily by children ages 6 through 12 shall be permitted to have an apron clearance and a knee clearance 24 in (610 mm) high minimum provided that the rim or counter surface is no higher than 31 in (760 mm).
EXCEPTION 2: Lavatories used primarily by children ages 5 and younger shall not be required to meet these clearances if clear floor space for a parallel approach complying with 4.2.4 is provided.

height ada compliant sinks

4.24.2 Height. Sinks shall be mounted with the counter or rim no higher than 34 in (865 mm) above the finish floor.

ada compliant shower rooms and shower enclosures

4.21.6 Shower Unit. A shower spray unit with a hose at least 60 in (1525 mm) long that can be used both as a fixed shower head and as a hand-held shower shall be provided.
EXCEPTION: In unmonitored facilities where vandalism is a consideration, a fixed shower head mounted at 48 in (1220 mm) above the shower floor may be used in lieu of a hand-held shower head.
4.21.7 Curbs. If provided, curbs in shower stalls 36 in by 36 in (915 mm by 915 mm) shall be no higher than 1/2 in (13 mm). Shower stalls that are 30 in by 60 in (760 mm by 1525 mm) minimum shall not have curbs.
4.21.8 Shower Enclosures. If provided, enclosures for shower stalls shall not obstruct controls or obstruct transfer from wheelchairs onto shower seats.

ada compliant bathtubs

4.20 Bathtubs.
4.20.1 General. Accessible bathtubs shall comply with 4.20.
4.20.2 Floor Space. Clear floor space in front of bathtubs shall be as shown in Fig. 33.
4.20.3 Seat. An in-tub seat or a seat at the head end of the tub shall be provided as shown in Fig. 33 and 34. The structural strength of seats and their attachments shall comply with 4.26.3. Seats shall be mounted securely and shall not slip during use.
4.20.4 Grab Bars. Grab bars complying with 4.26 shall be provided as shown in Fig. 33 and 34.
4.20.5 Controls. Faucets and other controls complying with 4.27.4 shall be located as shown in Fig. 34.
4.20.6 Shower Unit. A shower spray unit with a hose at least 60 in (1525 mm) long that can be used both as a fixed shower head and as a hand-held shower shall be provided.
4.20.7 Bathtub Enclosures. If provided, enclosures for bathtubs shall not obstruct controls or transfer from wheelchairs onto bathtub seats or into tubs. Enclosures on bathtubs shall not have tracks mounted on their rims.
4.21 Shower Stalls.
4.21.1* General. Accessible shower stalls shall comply with 4.21. Appendix Note
4.21.2 Size and Clearances. Except as specified in 9.1.2, shower stall size and clear floor space shall comply with Fig. 35(a) or (b). The shower stall in Fig. 35(a) shall be 36 in by 36 in (915 mm by 915 mm). Shower stalls required by 9.1.2 shall comply with Fig. 57(a) or (b). The shower stall in Fig. 35(b) will fit into the space required for a bathtub.
4.21.3 Seat. A seat shall be provided in shower stalls 36 in by 36 in (915 mm by 915 mm) and shall be as shown in Fig. 36. The seat shall be mounted 17 in to 19 in (430 mm to 485 mm) from the bathroom floor and shall extend the full depth of the stall. In a 36 in by 36 in (915 mm by 915 mm) shower stall, the seat shall be on the wall opposite the controls. Where a fixed seat is provided in a 30 in by 60 in minimum (760 mm by 1525 mm) shower stall, it shall be a folding type and shall be mounted on the wall adjacent to the controls as shown in Fig. 57. The structural strength of seats and their attachments shall comply with 4.26.3.
4.21.4 Grab Bars. Grab bars complying with 4.26 shall be provided as shown in Fig. 37.
4.21.5 Controls. Faucets and other controls complying with 4.27.4 shall be located as shown in Fig. 37. In shower stalls 36 in by 36 in (915 mm by 915 mm), all controls, faucets, and the shower unit shall be mounted on the side wall opposite the seat

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